{"id":1703,"date":"2026-11-05T01:52:04","date_gmt":"2026-11-05T01:52:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/omamorispirit.com\/?p=1703"},"modified":"2026-11-05T01:52:07","modified_gmt":"2026-11-05T01:52:07","slug":"dewa-sanzan-shrine-on-mount-haguro-the-2446-stone-steps-to-rebirth-in-tsuruoka-yamagata","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/omamorispirit.com\/fr\/shrines-temples\/dewa-sanzan-shrine-on-mount-haguro-the-2446-stone-steps-to-rebirth-in-tsuruoka-yamagata\/","title":{"rendered":"Dewa Sanzan Shrine on Mount Haguro: The 2,446 Stone Steps to Rebirth in Tsuruoka, Yamagata"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1704,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[56,141],"tags":[190,161,160,191,158,193,192],"class_list":["post-1703","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-shrines-temples","category-tohoku","tag-dewa-sanzan","tag-japanese-culture","tag-japanese-shrines","tag-mount-haguro","tag-shinto","tag-tsuruoka","tag-yamagata"],"acf":{"header":1704,"titre":"A Prince's Exile, Three Sacred Mountains \u2014 and One Stairway Walked for 1,400 Years","bloc_text_1":"Far from the temple crowds of Kyoto and the neon of Tokyo, in the snow country of Yamagata Prefecture, a mountain has been climbed as an act of faith for fourteen centuries. Mount Haguro, at just 414 metres, is the lowest and gentlest of the Dewa Sanzan, the Three Mountains of Dewa \u2014 yet it is the one every pilgrim must climb. Its summit shrine shelters the gods of all three peaks, its stone stairway counts 2,446 steps beneath cedars older than most castles, and its unpainted five-story pagoda has stood among the trees since the fourteenth century. This is not a sightseeing stop. It is a walk through the present, the past and the future, one step at a time.","bloc_image_1":1705,"bloc_text_2":"","titre_2":"A Prince Guided by a Three-Legged Crow","bloc_text_3":"The Dewa Sanzan were opened, tradition says, in 593 by Prince Hachiko, eldest son of Emperor Sushun, the 32nd emperor of Japan. When his father was assassinated in 592 by the powerful Soga no Umako, the prince fled the capital at Nara for his life. Legend says a three-legged crow \u2014 Yatagarasu, the messenger of the gods \u2014 led him north across Sado Island and along the coast to Mount Haguro, whose very name, \"mountain of black wings\", recalls the bird. There a bodhisattva appeared to him, and Hachiko gave up his imperial rank, took the name N\u014dj\u014d Taishi, and devoted the rest of his life to mountain worship. He went on to open the two higher peaks, Gassan and Yudono, and the three mountains became a single sacred triad of Shugend\u014d, the mountain asceticism practised by the yamabushi, monks who train in waterfalls and forests. Each mountain marks a stage of existence: Gassan the past, Haguro the present, Yudono the future, and to walk all three is the \"Journey of Rebirth\". A small shrine beside the summit hall still honours Prince Hachiko himself, and his imperial tomb is said to stand on the mountain he never left. In the summer of 1689, Matsuo Bash\u014d climbed here too, on the journey that became The Narrow Road to the Deep North, and the mountain has drawn poets and pilgrims ever since.","bloc_image_2":1706,"bloc_text_4":"","titre_4":"2,446 Steps Through a Thousand-Year Forest","bloc_text_5":"The pilgrimage begins at the vermilion Zuishinmon gate, once guarded by Buddhist Ni\u014d warriors and called the Ni\u014dmon before the Meiji-era separation of Shinto and Buddhism. Beyond it, the stone stairway runs 1.7 kilometres uphill in three great slopes \u2014 Ichinozaka, Ninozaka, Sannozaka \u2014 laid in the 1600s under the 50th chief priest, Teny\u016b Bett\u014d, who spent thirteen years setting the stones from 1648. Look down as you climb: 33 Buddhist symbols are carved into the steps, and finding them all is said to grant a wish. Above you tower hundreds of cedars, some 350 to 500 years old, a handful a thousand, designated a Special Natural Monument; the oldest, Jiji-sugi, the \"Grandfather Cedar\", stands near the pagoda. About ten minutes from the gate, deep in the trees, rises the Goj\u016b-no-t\u014d, the five-story pagoda: first raised in the 930s, traditionally by the rebel Taira no Masakado, rebuilt in 1372, some 29 metres of unpainted wood left to weather grey among the cedars. It is a National Treasure since 1966, the oldest tower in the Tohoku region and the northernmost five-story pagoda in Japan \u2014 and a quiet witness to history, since the Buddhist statues it once held were removed in the 1800s and replaced by the Shinto god \u014ckuninushi no Mikoto when the mountain was made purely Shinto. The climb takes about an hour, and in summer the pagoda is illuminated at night among the cedars.\r\n\r\nOne Roof for Three Mountains\r\n\r\nAt the summit waits the reason for it all: the Sanjin Gosaiden, the hall where the gods of the three mountains are worshipped together. Its present building dates from 1818, but its thatched roof \u2014 2.1 metres thick, the thickest in Japan \u2014 shelters a design unchanged for centuries, and it is listed as an Important Cultural Property. This is what makes Haguro unique: Gassan and Yudono are closed for months each winter under metres of snow, so their deities are said to \"winter\" here, and a single visit to Haguro honours all three peaks at any time of year. Haguro is also the only one of the three reachable by road, with a bus from Tsuruoka Station to the summit in about fifty minutes \u2014 but the stairway remains the true approach, and since 2021 the shrine has promoted the Ishidan-mode pilgrimage, urging visitors to walk the steps rather than drive past them. Before you leave, stop at the shrine office: an omamori from Dewa Sanzan \u2014 for safe passage through a turning point in life, or for rebirth after a hard year \u2014 carries the mountain's oldest promise, that the present, climbed step by step, can lead somewhere new.","bloc_image_3":1707,"bloc_text_6":"","titre_picto_1":"Construction","text_picto_1":"Opened in 593 by Prince Hachiko; stone stairway laid from 1648; pagoda rebuilt 1372, Sanjin Gosaiden rebuilt 1818","titre_picto_2":"Divinity","text_picto_2":"The deities of the Three Mountains of Dewa \u2014 Gassan (past), Haguro (present), Yudono (future) \u2014 enshrined together at the Sanjin Gosaiden","titre_picto_3":"Religion","text_picto_3":"Shinto shrine of the Shugend\u014d mountain tradition; yamabushi pilgrimage, the Journey of Rebirth","titre_picto_4":"Location","text_picto_4":"Haguroyama, Haguro-machi Toge, Tsuruoka, Yamagata Prefecture 997-0211, Tohoku, Japan"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO 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